General Info
Currently 4x4less but am working on it :)
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- I am from
- Brisvegas QLD
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- My work
- Accident Management Officer Australian Accident Management
Member Activities
Some very good advise there but may I add.
I wouldn't recommend pressure washing any radiator as you will almost certainly bend the fins creating more issues than you solve. Also remember that most modern 4x4's have 2,3 radiators one after the other. So only cleaning the one you see at the front won't get your radiator clear. But will ensure your ac keeps nice and cool. usually a good soak with just the open end of a hose and very mild pressure is enough to remove the mud. If you go mudding i would recommend that you periodically remove the radiator for proper cleaning.
Other thing is if your 4x4 has drum brakes anywhere make sure you pull these apart and look inside. My 96 Pajero had drum brakes inside the rear brake disks and after a massive mud run the grit that got in wore the shoes out in a few hundred kms. GQ/GU patrols have a drum brake on the rear tail shaft that is used as the handbrake.
An easy way to clean the underside of your 4x4 is to put a sprinkler under it and let it go for a while. I often find that my pressure washer will just blow the dirt/sand around under there and a normal hose or a sprinkler seems more effective for dust/sand or light mud. The pressure washer is really good at getting clay type mud.
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being made by hayman reece means it should be well engineered. I haven't seen any in the flesh yet but i think they look the goods
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Having had a 1996 Pajero and a 1991 Maverick (GQ patrol) i'd go with rebuilding the LSD nice and tight, good rubber and a front auto locker. It will stay comfortable and will be very capable.
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Some very good advise there but may I add.
I wouldn't recommend pressure washing any radiator as you will almost certainly bend the fins creating more issues than you solve. Also remember that most modern 4x4's have 2,3 radiators one after the other. So only cleaning the one you see at the front won't get your radiator clear. But will ensure your ac keeps nice and cool. usually a good soak with just the open end of a hose and very mild pressure is enough to remove the mud. If you go mudding i would recommend that you periodically remove the radiator for proper cleaning.
Other thing is if your 4x4 has drum brakes anywhere make sure you pull these apart and look inside. My 96 Pajero had drum brakes inside the rear brake disks and after a massive mud run the grit that got in wore the shoes out in a few hundred kms. GQ/GU patrols have a drum brake on the rear tail shaft that is used as the handbrake.
An easy way to clean the underside of your 4x4 is to put a sprinkler under it and let it go for a while. I often find that my pressure washer will just blow the dirt/sand around under there and a normal hose or a sprinkler seems more effective for dust/sand or light mud. The pressure washer is really good at getting clay type mud.
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i have the arb single which i got to use om my pajero and my 32" tyres. It seemed ok for those speed wise but when i had 33" on my Maverick it seemed to take a fair bit longer. That 1" makes a difference. I never timed it but i was always done before everyone else on the same size tyres when i went out.
Hope that helps
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Posted by: "Bort" at There are sets at morris 4x4 which claim to give ultimate flex. But they sell it as a whole lift kit and I already have a pretty good lift. So I am wondering where I am missing out? Maybe its just a few parts that I need and not the whole lot..
There's your answer, buy the new kit and sell what you have. plenty of jeepers want to upgrade their stock jk's
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1st get some dielectric grease and put it in every connector you can find. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/electrical-system-maintenance/permatex-dielectric-tune-up-grease-detail
2nd get a water blind. These greatly assist in creating the bow wave and ensuring the water is deflected away from your engine bay.
http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2546
3rd option is for a snorkel with option 1 & 2 already sorted
Now why would a snorkel be 3rd you ask? well if you go and look at the air intake system on your 4x4 odds are you'll find it tucked up behind the headlight or into the inner guard.
Now stop and have a look at how high that is off the ground. So at a standstill in water you'd have to be that deep to start taking in water (holes in the system aside)
Next watch some videos on 4x4's going through water crossings. You will note that they all create a bow wave once the water comes up to the bumper/bullbar (important to keep a constant speed to keep it going) and this will normally create a shallow right at the front of your wheels just where you'd normally see your intake opening inside the engine bay. This will allow you to tackle deeper crossings than you would normally.
If you hit the crossing with excessive speed all sorts of things can go wrong, such as water being forced INTO the engine bay and also damaging engine fan(s) and/or radiators.
And of course it goes without saying. Check the water before crossing 1st. On a busier stretch of road you could just wait for someone else to go through and watch their 4x4 and how it handles it.
2nd is to walk the crossing (beware of crocs in certain areas) and get a "feel" for the river itself for things like depth, current, and the base (sand, dirt, rock etc).
3rd is to have a recovery plan in place just in case it all goes wrong.
Of course this is just my experience. Others may have better advise.
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1st get some dielectric grease and put it in every connector you can find. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/electrical-system-maintenance/permatex-dielectric-tune-up-grease-detail
2nd get a water blind. These greatly assist in creating the bow wave and ensuring the water is deflected away from your engine bay.
http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2546
3rd option is for a snorkel with option 1 & 2 already sorted
Now why would a snorkel be 3rd you ask? well if you go and look at the air intake system on your 4x4 odds are you'll find it tucked up behind the headlight or into the inner guard.
Now stop and have a look at how high that is off the ground. So at a standstill in water you'd have to be that deep to start taking in water (holes in the system aside)
Next watch some videos on 4x4's going through water crossings. You will note that they all create a bow wave once the water comes up to the bumper/bullbar (important to keep a constant speed to keep it going) and this will normally create a shallow right at the front of your wheels just where you'd normally see your intake opening inside the engine bay. This will allow you to tackle deeper crossings than you would normally.
If you hit the crossing with excessive speed all sorts of things can go wrong, such as water being forced INTO the engine bay and also damaging engine fan(s) and/or radiators.
And of course it goes without saying. Check the water before crossing 1st. On a busier stretch of road you could just wait for someone else to go through and watch their 4x4 and how it handles it.
2nd is to walk the crossing (beware of crocs in certain areas) and get a "feel" for the river itself for things like depth, current, and the base (sand, dirt, rock etc).
3rd is to have a recovery plan in place just in case it all goes wrong.
Of course this is just my experience. Others may have better advise.
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I did all the work to my old Pajero myself paid cash for some parts and made deals for others so this would have been an awesome feature for when I had to claim.
The only thing i would say is that once an entry has been made it cannot be edited from original. more like updated versions where the original version is still accessible.
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My username is a little misleading for this forum
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Posted by: "NAVMAN" at Now for the bad news. My powersteering pump seems to have spat a seal. I'll need to investigate before being able to commit to coming along as I cant afford a replacement.
Well I removed the pump and stripped it and couldn't find anything wrong except a bolt seemed a bit loose. Put back together and $10 of powersteering fluid later it is running ok, need more time to bleed the bubbles out.
So i'm ready to roll
Pre-dirtied and all :)
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Ok so I went for a run to Station Creek just for you guys. The weather for the next few days looks like it'll be a bit damp at times so be prepared for wet weather camping.
There are 2 ways to get there. From the northern side heading south you'll turn left onto Newfoundland Rd (through Newfoundland SF) then right onto Burns Rd and then Left onto Barcoongere Way and just follow the signs to Yuraygir NP.
On the southern side heading North turn right onto Barcoongere Way and follow through :)
The road surface is loose and pebbly so take caution when approaching corners and crests as it can get narrow and off camber in places.
Facilities:
Amenities block
Wood barbecues (Need to bring own firewood which is available fromthe liberty petriol station in woolgoolga on the old pac hwy unsure if available from the BIG Shell station at halfway creek which is north)
Picnic tables
You should know:
Sites are not marked
Contract fee collector onsite
Self-registration stand onsite for fees if fee collector not available
First come first serve basis
Water is not available at this campground, so you'll need to bring your own supply for drinking and cooking.
This is a remote campground, so please make sure you arrive well-prepared.
There may be a supply of firewood at this campground, however it?s a good idea to bring your own supply.
Sites are not powered
Generators are not permitted in this campground
Rubbish bins are provided
Strong rips and currents may be present at this beach ? take care in the water and please supervise children at all times.
Check the weather before you set out as the road to this campground can become boggy when it rains
Noise restrictions
No domestic animals allowed
Fees:
Camping fees: $10 per adult per night. $5 per child per night. (There is a self registration booth at the entry with an envelope for the money)
Other fees: Annual pass or daily vehicle entry fee of $7 also required.
Bookings:
Bookings are not available for this campground.
Contacts:
Grafton, Phone: 02 6641 1500
Now for the bad news. My powersteering pump seems to have spat a seal. I'll need to investigate before being able to commit to coming along as I cant afford a replacement
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